‘My vision is all about women’: Kim Jones’ Fendi couture collection takes Rome as its inspiration
telegraph.co.ukDemi Moore and closed with Kate Moss) while his second took the form of an evocative film shot by Luca Guadagnino, the Call Me By Your Name director.
So far so good. But couture is all about the grand, often overblown spectacle – ballgowns, supermodels, Kanye West front row in a leather balaclava – and so there were great expectations for this runway outing.
The set positioned it perfectly: a blacked-out box within the old Paris stock exchange, a nod to heritage with a hanging light installation referencing palazzo columns, modernity brought right into the heart of tradition, new ideas with old money.
This sums up Jones’ tenure at the brand so far – while predecessor Karl Lagerfeld spent 54 glorious years exploring the boundaries of how fur could be used, he’s already made things seem slicker, sexier and significantly more seductive in an era where fur – in Europe at least - has largely fallen out of fashion.In fact you’d have had to look hard to see fur in this near perfect collection, which felt powerful, controlled and played to the atelier’s skill with its focus on elaborate beading, hand painting and embroideries.
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