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Native at Browns restaurant review: can foraged cocktails and grey squirrel lasagne win in Mayfair?

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telegraph.co.uk

Joan Burstein (‘Mrs B’) famously snapped up John Galliano’s entire graduate collection. Today Browns upholds her reputation for nurturing next-gen talent with the appointment of Imogen Davis and chef Ivan Tisdall-Downes, two of the country’s most original restaurateurs.

In the five years since they launched zero-waste Native, they’ve never failed to surprise, whether serving (ethical) grey squirrel lasagne at their Borough restaurant – the critters could hardly have been more controversial if they’d been clad in bumsters – or upping sticks to Osea Island in Essex as they did last year.

Flame-haired Davis, a keener falconer than fashionista, won’t care if you turn up in Jacquemus or John Lewis. Mayfair won’t know what’s hit it.This is the.

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