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William Sitwell reviews Gee's, Oxford: ‘It promised a menu of captivating freshness and flavour’

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telegraph.co.uk

Gee’s in Oxford had me drooling in anticipation.To gain entrance to what was once a nursery, you walk down one side gloriously overflowing with plants so it still feels like a fabulous garden centre.We were shown to a table outside the conservatory and within earshot of a neighbouring extraction machine.

It was emitting the sort of hum they might use to keep you awake in a prison cell in Nicaragua. I wasn’t in the mood to confess to owning a shipment of narcotics I had nothing to do with, so begged for a table inside.

They found a very comfy-looking one with huge leather chairs for us by the entrance and bar, a few steps from the kitchen but not in the grand glasshouse.Then we looked at the menu.

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