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William Sitwell reviews Holbeck Ghyll, Windermere: 'I hadn't come this far for afternoon tea – even with staff shortages'

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telegraph.co.uk

Holbeck Ghyll, an establishment in the Arts and Crafts style perched above the town and lake. Reputed to be one of the best restaurants in the north, with a bundle of prizes to its name, I was intrigued to dine, hungry and happy to do so in such an amazing part of the world.‘I’m sorry, sir, but we are only serving afternoon tea today,’ continued the voice.‘What do you mean?’ I replied. ‘I’m booked in for lunch and I’ll be there in 10 minutes.’‘I apologise, sir, but due to staff shortages we can only serve afternoon tea, which you are welcome to have.’My lunch reservation was early, for noon.

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