William Sitwell reviews Lisboeta, London: ‘I felt like I was being waterboarded in tallow’
telegraph.co.ukRoka, Pied à Terre, Mere and Norma, lands Lisboeta. And it opened with the bells and whistles of chef Nuno Mendes, who bounced into our lives a few years ago as the chef at uber-trendy Chiltern Firehouse, and recently ran the now-closed 16-seater tasting-menu spot, Mãos.
This place heaves and breathes with the travails of the designers and architects to reflect the fabrics and textures of Portugal.
While there is seating upstairs and a private room downstairs (so chilled by air conditioning when I popped my head in that it was almost snowing), the real action is along the counter on the ground floor.
The backlit wooden cabinets opposite are filled, decoratively, with glasses and pretty china bowls, bottles of spirits and potted plants – mirroring, apparently, the look of traditional Portuguese pharmacies.
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