William Sitwell reviews Maria G's: ‘The Amalfi Coast – by way of residential Kensington’
telegraph.co.ukrestaurants in London and who devised the menu but devolves cooking responsibilities, says the food offered at Maria G’s reminds him of the Amalfi Coast. ‘A little fishing village called Marina del Cantone left a huge impression on me,’ he writes. ‘Maria G’s,’ he adds, ‘is a restaurant taking me down memory lane.’ And what lush memories he must have.
The establishment feels like the private club of a brand such as Gucci or Louis Vuitton. It’s a swirl of beautiful booths, deep aquamarine upholstered seating, gold rails and vast copper pots containing ancient olive trees.
Except, of course, we’re in Kensington. And not really Kensington – we’re in a newly developed housing enclave sandwiched between the heaving north-western artery of Warwick Way and the railway line linking Earl’s Court with Olympia.
My point being, not very Amalfi Coast. So think of this place as being a siren call for the newly built apartments. Buy or rent a gaff here and you can spend your leisure time eating exceptional food in this chic oasis: at the smart bar, in the chi-chi dining room or outside on the terrace beside the fresh turf and newly planted herb beds.
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