William Sitwell on Charlie's, London: ‘Pure, luxurious, old-fashioned class’
telegraph.co.ukBrown’s Hotel in Mayfair. That he has fetched up there following the closure of Le Caprice after lockdown, where he served an astonishing 39 years, is a triumph for the hotel’s owner Rocco Forte.The hospitality industry is rammed with celebrity chefs; there are considerably fewer stellar maître d’s.
In fact there are really just four of them: Jesus, Diego Masciaga (latterly of The Waterside Inn, now at Bibendum), John Davey (grand consultant/private hire) and Silvano Giraldin (officially retired from Le Gavroche but who pops up for special occasions).
They share a unique gift for genuine, theatrical, warm and familiar welcome and care.As I say, I’d suffered the deliberate, mischievous and malicious torture that is the Uber app (promising cars, in two minutes, no four, no 11, no eight, no four, then just cancelling, ad infinitum).And such is the welcome and care at Charlie’s that a few minutes into lunch you’re softened and brushing off the trauma of overground logistics.Yes, the menu is overseen by the brilliant Adam Byatt of Clapham’s celebrated Trinity, but imagine the pleasure and relief of a besuited man happily holding your 18-month-old while you sip Champagne.It is in this gloriously relaxing vein that Charlie’s envelops you.
There have been several culinary incarnations in this space over the years. And while Mark Hix was a triumph for a decade, Heinz Beck, who followed in 2018, provided a soulless overcomplicated Italian offer.At last, the food, service and decor (unchanged wood-panelling, exotic bird wallpaper) are on song and it makes for an utterly glorious Sunday lunch.The children tucked into fish and chips and a toasted sandwich, the latter with a vast plate of tasty tomatoes on the side (18-month-old.
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