Bentley’s terrace too gloomy for summer alfresco but the sunless location at the far end of Swallow Street works a treat on a dark night when you feel as if you’ve stumbled upon a welcoming enclave of good cheer.Winter, in any case, is the best time to appreciate the cold-water joys of Richard Corrigan’s menu of peerless British seafood: native oysters deftly served by the most expert shuckers in London, Scottish lobster that is a meaty revelation to anyone used to puny North American specimens, and the classiest of shellfish cocktails, brimful of crab, prawns, lobster and brown shrimp.
Champagne (including some marvellous vintages) and crisp French whites are the thing to drink, but forget about the rule about not mixing spirits and.
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