Damien Hirst Mark Hix Paris USA Germany art google man Sinister Damien Hirst Mark Hix Paris USA Germany

The sexy, sinister lost art of the restaurant menu

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telegraph.co.uk

a rarity despite Brexit, which you might think would boost them. Bread – 4.0 (butter usually included) is typical. It’s joyless, and getting worse.

The QR code, which you must point your smartphone at to download a menu, is common. What if you don’t have a smartphone? Are you already dead and don’t need food?I have reviewed restaurants for a decade, and the only menu I can remember is from Maxim’s in Paris, because of its blood-red letters dripping down the menu in exquisite, and now unfashionable, style.Menu Design in Europe (A Visual and Culinary History of Graphic Styles and Design 1800-2000), a new book from Taschen, reminds us that most menus used to be interesting.

Taschen doesn’t really make books, it makes archives. This one tells us that menus have been gaudy and insane. They have been as fantastical and huge as they are now small and sullen.

History is not found, for me, in great men. I have met too many of them. The menu is far more evocative.Taschen says they are collectibles now, which has made me remember a second menu, from Pharmacy 2, the restaurant Damien Hirst opened with Mark Hix in Lambeth in 2016.

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