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The discount supermarket that is a playground for wine lovers

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regularly feature in this column. Lidl’s, as many irked correspondents have pointed out, are rarely seen. The reason is partly qualitative – Aldi’s range has more bright stars – and partly logistical.

Lidl’s range is divided into two sections. The core wines can be found on the shelf throughout the year. I recently tasted three dozen of these and a handful stood out.

Le Rocher de Saint Victor Picpoul de Pinet 2021 France (£6.99) is a decent example of this grape. Saline and innocuous, it would make a good first-glass-from-the-fridge (it would also be a good base for a Kir, if you’re in the market for that sort of thing, and I always am in autumn).

Fans of medium-dry riesling might want to try Thörnicher St Michael Mosel Riesling 2021 Germany (£4.99). In reds, I liked Corte alle Mura Chianti Riserva 2019 Italy (£5.99), which has a whiff of nutmeg, balsamic vinegar and dried cherries and would be great with a bowl of pasta in a tomato-based sauce.

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