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The best comfort food recipes to make on chilly winter nights

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thick soup. It could be risotto. For years I’ve made all manner of gratins to answer this need. As soon as I feel the first shiver of autumn, ‘gratin’ goes on my to-cook list.

I have two pans especially for them, a cast-iron one to feed six and a copper one (how I wish I’d bought more copper, pre-children, when I could afford it) to feed eight.When I first taught myself to make gratin dauphinois I tried different approaches – there is more than one way to do it – until it was perfect.

Mine uses both double and sour cream (I like the tang of sour cream in it), and its success depends on the quantities of both potatoes and cream and the size of your dish.

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