British chefs are beating the French at brasseries
telegraph.co.ukBrasserie Floderer, one of the most famous restaurants in Paris. Or, for that matter, at Maison François, O’Neill’s own smart version in London’s St James’s.He examines the offending items in the dim light. ‘I don’t think you’d get away with this in London,’ he says.
Next to our table, a waiter wrestles with our bottle of wine. ‘He’s about to realise we don’t have wine glasses,’ says O’Neill, 37, under his breath.
Sure enough, our waiter, having finally extracted the cork, goes to pour before he notices the lack of vessels. O’Neill rolls his eyes.It was not meant to be like this.
When you imagine a restaurant in Paris, it looks like this: a darkly panelled brasserie, with lamplight shimmering off slightly foxed brass, where expert waiters present unimprovable classics: onion soup, oysters, celeriac remoulade, devilled eggs, steak tartare.
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