William Sitwell reviews Blacklock, London: ‘Meat piled high and wines on tap… glorious’
telegraph.co.ukBentley’s Oyster Bar & Grill on Swallow Street. For there, at the bar, is one of London’s greatest oyster shuckers. His name is Darius Ashard and, spruce in his long white coat and apron, he has the kind of knowledge, charm and bonhomie that confirms the idea that, come noon, sipping through a mix of Champagne, muscadet and Guinness while enjoying a roll call of fine oysters from the British coastline is a most right and proper thing to do.Please do the same.
Then, refreshed and eager, dash to Blacklock to keep up the good work. There, in Gordon’s new windowless basement off Bedford Street, between the bare brick walls and the sound of his Eighties playlist, are happy, friendly staff and a sharing dish – the ‘All In’ – that we put our names down for.After some bites on little biscuits – easy-going things like egg mayo – came a pile of beef, pork and lamb chops, all slim and very well cooked and covering grilled flatbreads that soak up the juices from above.
There were respectable sides: extremely good chips – as soft within and as crunchy on the outside as you might wish – along with kale, room-temperature and crunchy and hiding somewhere under a soft mound of grated Parmesan.
Plus, thin strips of veg – a winter salad – and a very rich gravy. Joe also insisted on some sweet potato that had been roasted in ash for 10 hours.
Read more on telegraph.co.uk
