The River Cafe Look Book, the 15th collection of recipes to emerge from the fabled Italian restaurant by the Thames, this time aimed at children and young people. ‘It is also art – a picture on a plate.’ Hmm.
I’ve never been 100 per cent convinced that cooking is art but it certainly makes good theatre. Arriving at the River Cafe on a bright London morning is a little like stepping into a beautifully choreographed musical.
In the open kitchen behind the pink wood-fired oven, fish are being descaled, ravioli filled, carcasses gently simmered. Over on the long bar, glasses are polished, menus amended, glances exchanged.
Everyone understands their role. You could be forgiven for thinking that all was right in the world.The director of this long-running production, Ruth Rogers – Baroness Rogers of Riverside, to use her full title, courtesy of her late husband, the architect Richard Rogers, although everyone calls her Ruthie – is perched on the pass in her chef’s whites.
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