Michel Roux Jr, for example, likes the Bistro Union in Clapham to take the strain. ‘They do a very good quality roast chicken for two, and sometimes on a Sunday lunch I can’t be bothered to cook.
It’s brought to the table whole, so you can attack it yourself,’ he says.Chef Angela Hartnett lets her other half, Neil Borthwick, take the reins – albeit at his own restaurant, French House, in London’s Soho.
There she goes with the flow, eating whatever’s on the Sunday menu: ‘It could be roast chicken, roast goose or beef sirloin,’ she says.Back at our place and approaching one o’clock, we light the fire in the dining room.
A smallish room, with a convivial round table, it is a mere shadow of the rooms where, historically, a roast was eaten. Largesse was the operative word in the 14th century, for example.
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