Downton Abbey than a Michelin-star restaurant. Jake McConville, who's on his fifth Christmas with the same Home Counties family, recalls one such experience. "In some of the old country houses you're trying to feed 15 people using an Aga that hasn't been serviced since 1950, and the turkey doesn't fit in so you're hacking off its legs...
with screaming children running around you." Zagatti, for his part, says he's been known to spend £10,000 in a day kitting out a client's kitchen.For chefs staying in the UK this Christmas - and many are choosing to do so - menus will be staunchly traditional.
Harwood is going 'very Victorian', all raised pies and Christmas puds, with everything sourced from the client's restored kitchen garden. "It's a.
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