In a genre heavy on outright gastroporn, Abby Ainsworth's polished documentary on Spain's celebrated Mugaritz restaurant inspires more curiosity than hunger.
By Guy Lodge Film Critic Popular gastronomy seems to come in two extreme flavors these days. At one end of the chicly underdressed table is the kind of easy-breezy, culturally scattered, make-it-your-own casual dining epitomised by Jamie Oliver and Alison Roman.
At the other is food as fussy molecular science: hyper-sculpted, tweezer-assembled and outlandish in flavor and presentation, it has made Michelin-starred gods of the likes of Heston Blumenthal, pushing the idea of fine dining into near-fantastically rarefied realms.
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