Darjeeling Express, has dedicated her new book, Ammu, to her mother. She told me recently that mothers and grandmothers should be recognised and honoured for handing on recipes and knowledge; instead, male chefs imbibe this from the women in their families but rarely credit them.
That’s why she has an all-female kitchen, staffed not by chefs but by women who cook Indian ‘home’ food. Khan started cooking only when she left India for Cambridge, a place where she felt isolated and homesick.
She learnt how to cook via letters from home and a notebook she’d kept while growing up. Asma’s love of food developed during a bleak period, helped notes she received from her mother.There is pain in Nigel Slater’s love of food too.
His mum wasn’t a good cook, but she made him buttered toast, an edible hug, something that was in short supply when Nigel’s mum died when he was just nine years old.
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