Lea & Sandeman) is dazzling and focused.Champagne Delamotte Blanc de Blancs 2012 (£79.50, Corney & Barrow) is an immaculate wine, creamy yet also light on its feet, made in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger.
From the same vintage, Champagne Bruno Paillard Blanc de Blancs 2012 (£80, Hedonism Wines) has a beautiful label designed by the Japanese artist Takehiko Sugawara, and the wine inside lives up to it: very dry and compact and still youthful.And then, of course, there is Taittinger Comtes de Champagne 2008 (£182, thefinestbubble.com), a much-loved blanc de blancs that is luminous in this excellent vintage, combining finesse with a cool richness - all lemon syllabub and gentle smoke.Moving on from blanc de blancs, Pol Roger Brut 2012 (£64, down from £80,.
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