William Sitwell county Somerset medicines Parke Matthews William Sitwell county Somerset

Can a fanatical forager convert fine dining snob William Sitwell?

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telegraph.co.uk

wild and foraged food, most of it sourced from the vicinity of her eco-house, near the village of Avonbridge. Making just one allowance for olive oil, she vowed to endure 12 months without buying any item of food or drink.

Now with a book just published that is a diary of that journey – what she calls her ‘rebellious hunger strike’ – and a treatise on her approach to the modern world, she has invited me to stay with her for a couple of days.I’m a restaurant critic, a purveyor of the tasting menu, not unusually our home fridge bulges with food imported from around the world, from Parma ham to feta cheese, avocados to olives.

While I’m pretty healthy – I eat plenty of salad and veg and pulses – my diet is coloured with sausages, croissants, Grape-Nuts and pistachios.

I relish good, strong coffee brewed from the capsules of our Nespresso machine, I delight in a glass of white wine. I like dark chocolate Hobnobs.As I follow Mo through the park, climbing over logs and brushing aside leaves, as she places items into her canvas bag, I’m trepidatious to say the least: her idea of lunch is rather different than mine.In the ensuing 20 minutes, bits of green that I would dismiss as weeds are picked and popped into her bag.

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