dishdasha), were waiting outside reception with a convoy of Toyota Land Cruiser 4x4s, the modern equivalent of a camel. It was obvious I was in good hands.
Nelson, who first came to Oman in 1991, is a former officer in the British Royal Marines and also served in the Royal Army of Oman's Desert Regiment in the 1990s.
He has been returning ever since, offering high-end, expedition-style camping safaris to its lesser-known corners.We made a quick detour to old Salalah's frankincense souk, where al-Mahri gave me a crash course in the different grades of the resin and explained its uses, from the religious to the routine - drinking a little dissolved in water is said to be a cure for indigestion.
Read more on telegraph.co.uk