Bellamy’s, the only London restaurant where the present Queen has ever dined. He is far too much of a gentleman to divulge how Her Maj behaved on her two visits but as meals always end with Rankin handing out shop-bought Minstrels instead of laboriously constructed petits fours, one can presume that there was not an excess of formality.
Which is not to say that Rankin thinks that table manners no longer matter. “We try not to have too many rules as I dislike bossy restaurants but every so often you do have to give a gentle nudge,” he says. “Immoderate laughter of the shrieky, attention-drawing kind drives me bonkers.
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