Nordic or Germanic breads twice a week because it’s easy to get the cracked rye and malted grains whose flavour I love. But there was an area of cooking where I felt starved.As soon as I left Northern Ireland, with its great meat and excellent butchers, part of my cooking self was lost.
I remember looking at the selection of high-street butchers in Oxford, where I first lived, with a heavy heart. When I asked for ‘scrag of lamb’ to make Irish stew they didn’t seem to know what I was talking about, or didn’t have it.
I gradually fell back on supermarkets for meat. It wasn’t the quality I was used to and – worse – the range of cuts was limited.Gradually, during the pandemic, I’ve started to use online butchers.
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