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William Sitwell reviews Edie's, St Austell: ‘The soufflé was so darned perfect, I felt moved’

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telegraph.co.uk

Devon coast, with views of half sunken shipwrecks and sand dunes. What a tantalising start to my mission to a place called Edie’s.

Carlyon Bay, I read on Wikipedia, is a bay and a set of three beaches by the town of St Austell. Those beaches are named Crinnis, Shorthorn and Polgaver.

Mutter their names with a piratey West Country accent and they could be cheeses, cattle breeds or the names of three miscreants due for a nasty end come the morning.‘Beach Road, please,’ I asked the cab driver at St Austell station, wondering wistfully what I might soon be eating as the waves crashed below, or lapped gently at the shore.A few minutes later we pulled into a dull-looking cul-de-sac – one of those nondescript retail strips you get in the unloved parts of our grimmer towns.

You might get a mini branch of Nisa or Happy Shopper, a pharmacy, a miserable sandwich shop and a defunct barber’s. I spotted the frontage of Edie’s.

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