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Meet the stars riding the crest of hallyu, the Korean wave in fashion, art, film and music

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Girl band Blackpink front row at Paris fashion week. Hour-long queues for BTS merchandise in Las Vegas. Ariana Grande dressed in a glittery emerald two-piece from Miss Sohee.

Over the past few years, Korea’s soft power has rocketed in the west. Park Chan-wook was named best director at Cannes film festival in May for his Palme d’Or winner Decision to Leave, while the Emmy-nominated Squid Game remains the most watched season ever on Netflix, with the show’s actor Jung Ho-yeon becoming the first solo east Asian cover star of American Vogue.

K-pop groups Blackpink and BTS have a record number of subscribers to their YouTube channels. The origins of what is called hallyu (the Korean wave) can be seen in the black-and-white photograph above, featured in a Victoria & Albert exhibition that opens this month.

Showing a farmer ploughing with his cow in front of a lone apartment complex in Gangnam in 1978, the rural fields are bewildering to reconcile with the neighbourhood’s now futuristic landscape of skyscrapers and restaurants with robot servers. “We wanted to open with the historical preamble of how, in such a short period of time, Korea went from nought to 100,” says Rosalie Kim, the curator of the V&A’s Hallyu!

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