There’s an absolutely gorgeous wine bar not far from our house. It’s been quietly going about its business in Levenshulme, becoming a local word-of-mouth powerhouse since opening in 2019.
However the incredibly talented team behind Isca had the national spotlight thrust upon them recently. Their innocent existence was rumbled a few weeks ago by an article in The Sunday Times, in which restaurant critic Charlotte Ivers gushed about their ‘small plate’ of cabbage on the menu, which was priced at £10.
She admitted that she enjoyed it, and in doing so, is probably herself part of a wider problem that’s happening more broadly in traditionally working-class areas.
It got her thinking “whether it’s good that some places get nicer and filled with natural wine, or whether it’s bad that working-class communities in cities around the country get overrun by posh kids looking for an artisan bakery and somewhere they can pretend mummy doesn’t have a house in Kensington.” The Manchester Evening News took note of the piece, and it caused a bit of a stir in the comments section.
Read more on manchestereveningnews.co.uk