With his latest venture, Dean Banks has his finger on the Dulse

dailyrecord.co.uk:

Six or more course menus have become the default offering from our most ambitious and talented chefs and I understand why - they want to use the best of stuff to create a coherent meal where every element is in harmony.I get that - and I'm not complaining about having to eat multiple exquisite dishes for a living.

It's just that long, fancy, spendy dinners do not fit easily into most of our lives.When we are not celebrating a birthday with a zero at the end or asking someone to marry us, we don't have the time or budget to allow a chef to let off all the fireworks.What I - and I suspect lots of other folk - do want is the same level of skill and dedication but in a cheaper, quicker, more flexible format.

Thankfully, some of the most skilled operators in the business are getting the message. Tom Kitchin's new spot, Kora, is a good example.

Now Dean Banks, a finalist on MasterChef The Professionals in 2018, has opened Dulse in Edinburgh's Queensferry Street. This is practically across the road from his Pompadour restaurant which is amazing but a whole evening of serious financial and calorific commitment.