It is summer in Erbil, Iraq, and all day, the dusty streets have been baking. In the punishing 40 degree heat anyone who can stays inside, and those who are out can only move with the pace the day allows.
But as dusk sets in, the city changes. In a vast beer garden the size of a football pitch, hundreds of tables are filled with people drinking, smoking, and laughing under the glow of the city lights.
Twenty years on from the British invasion, this is the side of Iraq few are familiar with. Growing up in the UK in the noughties, every mention of Iraq was in the context of war and conflict.
During my teenage years the headlines shifted to the atrocities of the Islamic State group (ISIS), but the association was similar.
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