Veronique Nichanian: Last News

infused it with streetwear cool. After his premature death in November, Abloh’s final collection was a reminder that, alongside those sportswear, edgy looks, he knew how to explore the skill of its Paris ateliers in creating impeccably sharp suits in lean silhouettes, some in punches of purple and turquoise silk, with cross over lapel details and sweeping, elongated coats. “It felt right to focus on rigour, tailoring, sophistication and the idea of uniform again,” says Mark Weston, creative director of historical British house Dunhill, who looked to the uprightness of British dress for his starting point, including the military attire of Prince William and the ease with which Prince Philip would don a suit. His collection, comprising heritage tweed suits with sharp silhouettes and sculptural, sweeping coats in black and camel, couldn’t be more suited to a Cityfied life that’s been lacking in the dress-down milieu.

Dolce & Gabbana had given to medical research to themes of escapism, apocalypse and social activism that brands have focused on throughout this last year. So as the spring/summer 22 men’s shows draw to a close at a time when we are - hopefully - seeing the dying embers of this wretched time, brands have dealt with it in myriad forms.

Hermès. It’s the oldest of all the luxury grande dames, founded in 1837, and if it suddenly announced, for example, a renegade new sportswear direction or Tiktok star as brand ambassador, we’d know we really were in the upside down.