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At home with Ukrainian chef Olia Hercules: 'Cooking is an act of defiance'
the Ukrainian chef and author tests recipes, writes award-winning cookbooks and feeds her children. Today it’s chaotic: toys underfoot, Ukrainian tablecloths scattered on the sofa, huge houseplants that need watering… but her priority is lunch. She rolls out an oval of pasta dough – it’s perfect, silky and supple – and cuts it into ribbons, just enough for two. Given what she’s going through I’m amazed she can cook, let alone cook for guests.