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William Sitwell reviews The George, London: ‘The drinks list is a hymn sheet to English wine’
fine English sparkling Gusbourne, which filled me with such bonhomie that I might blame it for my idiocy.Because, perusing the menu, I spotted the words ‘Cornish whelks’. And while I know whelks are horrible rubbery things, I take the mantra that one should order in restaurants that which one won’t get at home, so I went for them. I reassured myself that the chef behind this venture is the brilliant James Knappett.
