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Food, fashion and fame: the most memorable restaurants of the past decade
St John, the pastry stiff with suet and the filling sticky with slow cooking, lifted on to my plate by Fergus Henderson himself, resplendent in pinstripes. Then there’s Heston’s meat fruit at Dinner – the first bona fide #foodporn dish of the 2010s – as richly delicious as it is visually ravishing. Or the bombas de chocolates at Sabor, where Nieves Barragán Mohacho saves the best till last with a trio of doughnuts discharging molten torrents of gooey chocolate. Restaurants, of course, are about more than what you eat; at their most emblematic, they distil a moment in time to a glittering freezeframe of food, fashion and fame.
