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How fashion ditched the Gen Z look and made clothes for the over-40s again
infused it with streetwear cool. After his premature death in November, Abloh’s final collection was a reminder that, alongside those sportswear, edgy looks, he knew how to explore the skill of its Paris ateliers in creating impeccably sharp suits in lean silhouettes, some in punches of purple and turquoise silk, with cross over lapel details and sweeping, elongated coats. “It felt right to focus on rigour, tailoring, sophistication and the idea of uniform again,” says Mark Weston, creative director of historical British house Dunhill, who looked to the uprightness of British dress for his starting point, including the military attire of Prince William and the ease with which Prince Philip would don a suit. His collection, comprising heritage tweed suits with sharp silhouettes and sculptural, sweeping coats in black and camel, couldn’t be more suited to a Cityfied life that’s been lacking in the dress-down milieu.
