William Sitwell reviews Holm, Somerset: 'I was like a hippo in mud'
telegraph.co.ukHolm; a proud and pretty honey dipper of a place – once a bank, now a gloriously fine place to eat.You can tell it was a bank because there is still a cashpoint to the left of the door.
The operators of Holm are looking forward to the moment the agreement expires for the cash machine, as it will rid them of an awkward curtained-off void in the corner of the restaurant and enable them to add a couple of extra tables.
Which is surely more useful than a cashpoint these days.Maybe there’ll be a vote on it in a heated meeting of the parish council.
Old farming types whose fingers are too fat for phones and who refuse to bank online in league with grizzled builders who only trade in cash versus the trendy Somerset newbies and these restaurateurs from London with their fancy parfaits and biodynamic wines.The world’s press, in attendance for the story, would do well to book their places at the epicentre of this culture war – they’ll be the winners, so good is the food and service.Holm’s design is cosy meets Scandi minimal: bare walls and plaster, a speckled cement floor, simple wooden tables and chairs, and there’s an open kitchen and a bar with a few seats.Wines are kept in the centre of the place, in the old vault, and there’s an air of tidy, efficient order.
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