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William Sitwell reviews Diglis House Hotel, Worcester: ‘A cascade of culinary catastrophe’

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telegraph.co.uk

magnificent cathedral. Built in the 18th century, it was home to some noted Worcester families before, in the 1900s, it became a pub and then a hotel.

Now you can sip drinks in the garden and watch the water as swans glide in to land on the river like a Concorde. Then, if you’re booked in for dinner, the delightful staff will usher you to the upper restaurant terrace, deliver menus and take drinks orders.That’s more or less where the good stuff ends.

What ensues is a cascade of culinary catastrophe; an avalanche of incompetent, lazy, couldn’t-give-a-damn cooking that makes you think the Diglis is auditioning for a reality TV remake of Fawlty Towers.The menu promises a glorious feast of British and European inspiration.

So there are artisan breads, a soup of the day, chicken parfait, burrata with heritage tomatoes, meat, fish or vegan sharing platters, pork belly, beef rib, crispy duck salad, sea bream fillet, beer-battered haddock, a burger, loads of puddings, a board of Worcestershire cheese and much more.And there’s a kids’ menu: ‘Little Plates for Little People’.

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