William Sitwell reviews Apricity, London: ‘The waitress was wearing a dress made from recycled cans’
telegraph.co.ukMarcus Wareing, and whose gaff we are at, has me seething, huffing and puffing the moment we’re sat down. This is Apricity in the northern reaches of Mayfair and, no, I couldn’t say it either; the secret is to not linger on the ‘a’.
Think electricity, as opposed to après-ski, and you’ll get there.As the lovely waitress Beth explained to us (wearing a dress made from recycled Coke cans), the restaurant has sustainability at its core, so there are no menus.
That’s right, the moment you sit down you are given a little wooden block with a QR code on it. Out must come your phone, which is exactly what we should NOT be doing when we sit down at the table to dine.On-screen, the type is small and the wine list is worse, as it’s on long lines so you have to turn your phone horizontally to read it.
But the Apricity logo then pops out and gets in the way, so you can’t read it anyway. I would bang my head against the wall but, as this place is sustainable, it’s all bare brick and old plaster so it’s dusty and, having bashed my brains out, I’d have to wash my hair.So Farhad and Beth (the latter displaying excellent knowledge) read and recite alternate lines of the menu.
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