Australia blues man Yellow Australia

Why you need to be talking about the ‘shape’ of your wine

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telegraph.co.uk

wine described this way by the man who makes it.Tasting in shapes comes naturally to Hongell. He also has synaesthesia and tastes, dynamically, in colour – so ‘rieslings are white, blue, green, yellow orange and then fades into brown sort of a thing’ – which is not the sort of tasting note he usually shares, unless he is ‘a bit jet-lagged’ and forgets himself.

But shapes, he feels, are different, ‘I think actually everybody tastes in shape but they just don’t realise.’He is right. What else is it when people talk about a wine that is ‘too thin’?

And what about the tasting descriptor ‘smooth’? I read a book in which an eminent critic ridiculed those who used the word, as if it were impossible to comprehend, yet surveys of ‘normal’ wine drinkers repeatedly find that not only do they seem to understand it, smooth is a quality they actively seek out.It can be very instructive to talk about the texture of a wine.

Does it feel silky? Spiky? Thick? Grainy? Crenellated? (Yes, that is a word I use in my own tasting notes, usually about sangiovese).Hongell is interesting on how the texture of the tannins in a wine helps him to identify which vineyard sites they might have come from.

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