New York Fashion Week this season, newer labels Saint Sintra and LaQuan Smith seized their opportunity to shine. Proenza Schouler, Khaite and Ulla Johnson dug in with reliable brilliance and elsewhere, statement ensembles starring big sleeves, long trains and sequins made a racket.
The only question left unanswered was, how big a noise do you want your clothes to make? I’m stealing a direct quote from Michael Kors, who told journalists at a pre-show conference that the ‘conceal and reveal’ idea is a favourite approach.
He wasn’t alone – the notion of secret layers and hidden beauty beneath was everywhere.Nicky and Simone Zimmerman staged a masterclass in how to cope with flimsy looks on chilly nights with head-to-toe Pucci-esque silk or lace body stockings in cream or deep burgundy, to go under pretty layers of stiffened tulle and chiffon.At Proenza Schouler, professional-looking outer layers gave way to softer voluminous skirt-dresses, a full leopard print lining on a reversible white shirt offered bankable versatility.
Leather was the main event in many collections, cut into longer, narrow lengths in the softest shirts (easier to wear than you think) or floor-length skirts.
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