gazpacho class of his life. Huddled around his counter are chefs for the presidents, prime ministers, monarchs and state receptions of Spain, Canada, Luxembourg, the Netherlands, Monaco, Israel, Estonia, Ecuador, Peru, Morocco, South Africa, India, Iceland, Switzerland, Denmark, Italy and Germany.
There has been a poor showing from the anglophone nations. The head chef to the Queen, Mark Flanagan, who is also the club’s vice president, was meant to be here, but cancelled at the last minute; President Biden’s chef pulled out late, too.
President Macron’s chef will arrive, but not for another day. Understandably, de la Plata looks anxious. He enlists his elite helpers to pulverise cucumbers and tomatoes.
He is preparing his mother’s version of the recipe. Luckily, the cold soup is consumed amid happy murmurs. Ulrich Kerz, the wry German representative, who in his bold architect’s glasses looks not unlike a Teutonic Heston Blumenthal, holds up a bowl of tomato detritus. ‘Staff food,’ he says.
Read more on telegraph.co.uk